Snowdonia - damp hut but sunny hills

The initial aim of this weekend's trek was to check out the Imperial College hut, in the heart of Snowdonia, a few kilometres west of Snowdon. Located in Drws-y-coed, it was a beautiful location in between two steep hills. The hut is used by the university's mountaineering club and was well kitted out, but needed a clean and some new appliances. But the aim of the trip was mountaineering not dawdling in the hut. The weather couldn't have been better. We started our trek on the A498, below Pen-y-pass. Rather than paying the carpark, we parked beside the road and walked up. From Pen-y-pass, you cross the road and pass through a gate that leads to the ascent of Glyder Fawr. The north west ascent above the lake Llyn Cwmffynnon is quite steep, going from 350m to over 850m. This took us well over an hour, plus it was quite hot. You have great views of Crib Goch and Snowdon behind you. The ascent probably took 2 1/2 hours in total to the top of Glyder Fawr. From there you have fantastic views of the Welsh coast and Y Garn to the north west. The next stage of the walk is relaxing as you walk along a plateau towards Glyder Fach. There are great views looking down Llyn Ogwen and down a steep slope to Llyn Bochlwyd. As you walk along towards Glyder Fach, you also the pass the famous Cantilever stone. A rock that is balanced flat and can be walked on. At this point, you can continue on to Tryfan or head back to the Pen-y-pass road.

Dartmoor – hunting the megaliths

Part of the attraction of Dartmoor is the sense that time has stood still here for centuries. There are few official footpaths, any settlements were inhabited centuries ago and the hills have a permanence that has and will outlast the surrounding Devon countryside. South Dartmoor is possibly more picturesque than the north, less moody and softer than the ruggedness elsewhere in the park. To access south Dartmoor, it is best to park up in one of the small villages on the edge. I start my trek in Harford, near Ivybridge. After a short descent, you arrive on the Two Moors Way, one of the park's long distance footpaths. Rare for Dartmoor, it is an actual track road. Given how few proper footpaths there are here, it is worth enjoying while you can. After elevating to 461m on Ugborough Moor, you get good views of Plymouth and towards the Devon coast. The disused mine tram line curves deeper into Dartmoor proper.

The Moors Way is fairly easy going and having been injured for most of this year, it was a nice gentle warm up for my knee. But I turned in a north westerly direction towards Red Lake and Erme Pits hill, where there was once a mine. Once you reach the hill beyond, you get good views to the north and Higher Hartor Tor and Princetown in the far distance. I now started to test the knee, heading south then west below Langcombe hill. Eventually you get a sight of the old settlements and as you get closer, the Drizzlecombe stones. The megaliths are lined up over the space of 500 metres or so. There are several other cairns, stone rows and menhirs (standing stones) dotted around. The purpose of these is debated by historians: possible territorial markers; sacrificial altars; calendar tools or ideological symbols. Dartmoor has plenty of megaliths, stone circles and assorted archaeological points, that have all outlived the man made life on its edges. It is one of England's finest locations for unblemished ancient archaeology.

The route back to Harford needs plenty of cross country navigation. You head south west up a long gully, beside a stream to Shavercombe Head. After crossing Stall Moor and Harford Moor you can walk below the Two Moors way or stay lower and follow very bare trails through bracken and clumpy grass. This is bit harder work, but more authentic than the man made track above.

Peak Practice!

Been a quiet winter on the trekking front with the move to the south coast. The only outdoor options there are the south downs, B&Q or the beach. Not real wilderness. So despite knee and hip injuries, we headed to the Peak District for a three day trek. Starting off at the usual spot in Hope, we did the first slog up besides Win Hill, with rucksacks fully loaded. From there you head north and follow forest trails above Ladybower reservoir. At 400 metres plus there was still snow and the view out towards Kinder and Bleaklow was quite awesome and feeling more like Scandinavia than UK. The plan was to stay slightly lower and in the forests. There was a lot of passing sleet but the odd glimpse of spring sun.

After heading further north besides Derwent and Howden reservoirs, we found a great camp spot. Just below Ridgewalk Moor and by a river with good tree shelter.

The following morning we carried on a track above the camping spot and then followed a horseshoe round below the moor. We found a couple of shelters, worth remembering for future. Then we arrived back at the reservoirs. Having walked in the rain for a few hours, we were glad to get back to Hagg Side where we pitched. This large forest still had cloud lingering from the rain. There were great views of Lose Hill, the Edale Valley and Woodlands Valley which Snake Road or more simply the A57 follows. As the rain clouds cleared, we also had a sunset.

Just warming up...

Lakes Cave option

When the weather in the lakes is bad, it's really bad. So tents are often not an option, too much noise. Youth hostel? Warm but too safe. How about a cave then? If you can find one, then it's almost perfect. Woof Cave is about 300m up the side of Rossthwaite fell, about one hour walk from Stonethwaite. The side of the fell has numerous boulders that have split from the crag (Cam Crag) above. Amidst these boulders lies the cave. We took a bit of time to find the entrance. A chimney tells you that you're in the right place. A very narrow hole down didn't seem right. We were just about to try from a different angle, but then I spotted the entrance covered with rocks.


You needed to crawl through the entrance, but once in, it opens out to an oblong room about 15 feet long and 5 1/2 feet high. There had been many previous visitors and some basic carpentry means there is a bedding area at one end. At the other end, there is a small cooking area and fireplace. It was a hell of a lot warmer than outside and plenty of space for two people.

Kinder's extra protection

I haven't been up to the Peak district this year, but one of its main areas Kinder Scout has received some good news. Kinder Scout will be designated a national nature reserve. http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2009/oct/11/kinder-scout-grouse-moor-protected

Wondrous Wasdale

Another classic weekend in the lakes. Having been trekking in South America, Asia and Europe, I've seen some amazing scenery but the Lake District and in particular Wasdale in many ways surpasses anywhere else. I think it's maybe the simplicity and tranquility of the place. The long Wastwater lake is a main feature of the valley but the steep fells of Great Gable and Kirk Fell are mesmerising. In the late afternoon, early autumn sun, the sides of the fells were deep browns and greens. And overlooking the whole area is the two peaks of the Scafell Massif, the highest pair of mountains in England.

But first I completed a trail race in Rivington, near Bolton, Lancashire. Good course around a reservoir with plenty of variation in the trails. Wasdale is a good hour and half drive from the M6, quite near the coast, so only for the committed. The Irish sea coastline's most famous landmark is possibly the nuclear power station Sellafield. But the mountains of the lakes have been here for centuries and are not bothered by this new radioactive eye sore. One of the best ways to experience Wasdale is a day's circuit above the valley.

Behind the Wasdale Head inn and across a stream, lies an upward path. This path follows the stream into a large bowl, just below Pillar. The trail becomes more basic and involves a steep incline. This takes you to 600m or so. I always like to get these ascents over and done with. Once at the top you join the path that comes up from the other side of Yewbarrow. This path is the start of the horseshoe. The first peak that you reach is Red Pike then straight on from this you find a long fence and Scoat Fell. There are great views of Ennerdale Water from here and the sea. Steeple is a good view point for the lake and valley below.

You then continue towards Pillar through a little dip down 100 metres. Pillar is a great summit. Quite flat but with a full 360 degree range of views over Scafell and west to the sea. You then carry on towards Kirk Fell. The path up is very rocky and almost a scramble.

This takes you to Great Gable and the same trek I did in June. The slow walk down from Gable in the late afternoon sun was stunning. A pint in the Wasdale Head inn was the perfect finish. I'll be back again soon.

Priest's Hole

This weekend we stayed in an excellent camping spot - Priest's Hole just below Dove Crag on the eastern fells in the Lake District. It is more of a large overhang than a cave. But it is totally sheltered from the wind and has great views of the valley below. The hole sleeps up to 11 or 12 people. It is a regular spot for hikers and a good alternative to the expensive and rule excessive camp site below. Previous guests have left roll mats and basic supplies so if you forget anything, you'll be ok. The trail up to the cave is a little tricky but worth it.