I have uploaded videos onto Youtube of my trip to Nepal.
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Friday 31 October 2008
Wednesday 29 October 2008
Everest base camp trek
Day 1 - Lukla to Phakding
The last few days had seen unlimited cancellations, as heavy cloud prevented planes from landing at Lukla. So remarkably, our plane left on time. There was plenty of cloud about and despite landing on a six-pence, we made it! Having been cooped up in Thamel for a two noisy days, being out in the open mountains was like having a new set of lungs. The first days trek was fairly straightforward, undulating and only a few hours. The route passes various mani and stupas. Most of the rest of the day was spent sleeping and daydreaming at a mere 2500m.
Day 2 - Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Today was tough and proper trekking. The route crosses the river (name?) over several suspension bridges that somehow sap your energy. It passes through various villages and then hits a steep trail that leads up to Namche. With the sun at full blast, this was hard going. Especially as the heat reduces oxygen further. Mid way through the day, I found out that a plane had crashed at Lukla killing most of the passengers. My sense of mortality was right there in my face - the only option was to keep going.
With the flight delays creating backlogs, a long trail of sweaty trekkers virtually pigeon stepped up the hill to 3440m. But after 7 hours walking, we got there..Tried my first dal bhat and as cloud enveloped the valley, another quiet night in.
Day 3 - Namche Bazaar to Thame
The cloud had cleared by morning and at last, the reason I had come here, became apparent. Large snow peaked mountains surrounded Namche with plenty of blue sky. An easy day to Thame with some undulating trails passed quiet settlements. An increase of 300m (check!) or so. The lodge in Namche was fairly quiet as this is a less popular route, but interestingly and amazingly the lodge's owner - Appa Sherpa - holds the record for most ascents of Everest. Currently 19. Inspiration of sorts, but more bewilderment.
Day 4 - Thame to Lungden
Another 4 hour day. As we ascended above 4000m the landscape became more barren and more dramatic. The scale of the mountains was beginning to reveal itself. We stopped at Lungden - a very basic town. My first encounter with a group happened later in the day - 12 English. In a far off remote lodge, surrounded by Brits. Can't get away from it quite yet.
Day 5 - Lungden
The plan was to take to Renjo Pass today, but .... a dreadful night's sleep, if you can call it that. I probably slept one or two hours. My heart was beating at a fair old rate of knots and numerous paranoid/hypochondriac thoughts were flooding my mind. Would I have to turn back? Would my dream to see Everest be shattered before it had started? Also had some mild diarrhea, but a bit of anxiety about a full scale ascent the following day. So at about 3am, I was forced to wake Jhangbu and tell him I needed a rest day. My first proper acclimatization day, having missed the usual Namche rest. Not much happening in Lungden, but it was sunny and pleasant. And the English were actually a welcome addition, especially since some seemed in a worse state than me. Also having had minimal sleep, nodding off in the evening was fairly easy.
Day 6 - Lungden to Gokyo via Renjo pass
Now this was a great day. And especially after the tough previous night. We set off at 530am, in very faint light. The Renjo pass takes you to 5340m, so this was an overall ascent of 1000m (check!). The landscape was again very barren and steep. But I found a good focused pace that actually made it almost easy. We passed the English, but this was more down to their group inertia rather than my fitness. The last 200m up was steep on a snowy path of switchbacks. We had another Yak encounter that was quite surreal. Fortunately Jangbu carried my rucksack the final stage and was even running at some point.Having not really seen much thus far, arriving at the the top of the ridge was like being in a whole new mountain range. On the horizon was Everest, Lohtse and the rest of the Himalaya. Plenty of crowds going in both directions over the pass so it was hard to really contemplate the enormity of it, but 20 minutes down the trail (downhill), the immensity sank in. This was the highest mountain range in the world that totally dwarfed all others. In the distance was Gokyo and lake Gokyo (check!). Gokyo was fully booked, so at last I get to use the tent that I've lumbered up the hill.
Day 7 - Gokyo Ri
At 4700m, the night was extremely cold and in a 2/3 season tent, my expensive sleeping bad didn't seem to come up with the goods. The plan was to head up Gokyo Ri, which overlooks the village. But with cloud covering the top we delayed at ascent. Leaving at 9am and taking two hours to summit, we left at just about the right time, given the conditions. There was no view of the Everest range, but the view of the glacier was stunning. Gokyo has an excellent book exchange, so Touching the Void replaced Mountains of the Mind, and more inspiration followed. A blizzard hit Gokyo mid afternoon, so I de-tented. A short walk above the village to the glacier has stunning and overwhelming views.
Day 8 - Gokyo to Thagna
A clear morning, so a perfect chance for the Five Lake Walk north towards the Tibetan border. A second view of Everest was possible after a two hour slight uphill trek. The view along the **** glacier was as stunning as from the Renjo pass. We then crossed the glacier above Gokyo in a mazy and undulating trail that was often barely visible except for the odd cairn. Arriving at Phangnang (check!), a small village of three lodges and a stream, there was little to do except hang out around the yak dung fuelled stove. Time for rest before a long trek up the Chola Pass.
Day 9 - Thagna to Dzoglha via Cho La pass
Another 530am start and a long ascent to start the day. Early starts have their advantages: you don't walk in the sun for the first few hours and as you are half asleep it is easy to get in a good rhythm / forget about the steepness. This pass was pretty gruelling all in all, but not quite as bad as the Renjo pass. The ascent took about four hours. First a long steady climb, then a brief flat rocky path, then a very steep boulder trail. The last stretch was tough with less and less oxygen, but also with no clear path. Definitely sprained ankle territory.
Once you arrive the top and get passed the inevitable trekkers resting or passing the other way, the path led onto a snow covered glacial trail. This would be difficult in the winter to pass, but was great in the mid October sun. The descent was dramatic. First an almost vertical rocky path that looked horrendous to climb. Then a long trail with a simply magnificent view of Ama Dablam and the (lake?). We arrived at Dzoglha at about 1 or 2pm and stayed in a very cramped lodge with the English group and others.
Day 10 - Dzoglha to Lobuche
An easy day again. A pleasant downhill walk further down the valley and then a slow incline to Lobuche. The very relaxed walk did not lead to the best of overnight spots. Lobuche is a crossed between a run down town from Mad Max 2 and some sort of Indian border town. Lobuche is described as a shit-hole in Into Thin Air, written in 1996, so things obviously hadn't improved much. Most of the lodges were full, but I managed to "claim" a room that was closer to a cupboard and next to a disgusting toilet. The food was pretty good, but there was a constant flow of porters, trekkers looking for rooms and other hanger-ons. Sleeping was also very difficult with paper thin walls and somone snoring at full volume in my ear. I left as soon as there was sunlight. Lobuche was redeemed by a short walk above the village to a fantastic view of the glacier leading up to base camp. Numerous cairns littered the ridge - another spot where you feel small and the size of Himalayas hits you.
Day 11 - Lobuche to Gorak Shep
We left Lobuche at 7am and trekked to Gorak Shep at 5180m. I could definitely feel the altitude here but after a hearty breakfast, we made the slow trek up to base camp. The walk wasn't the easiest. Firstly as the air was thin, but also as we crossed the glacier, the trail was rocky and undulating. However at long last, base camp was reached, the main objective of the trek achieved. No elation, but very very satisfying. Base camp is just a rocky area but is surrounded by oppressive peaks. You cannot see Everest, there were good views on the way up. I had met quite a few trekkers who said that base camp wasn't worth it, but I disagree. It's the place where dreams start or die, it's the base of the world's greatest mountain and it is a beautiful spot in its own right. Not just a tick-box place. On the way back we heard several avalanches. We didn't know it at the time, but several climbers were killed. We trekked back to Gorak Shep and by the end I was shattered. This was possibly the longest days trekking I'd done so far. The loodge was busy but friendly. The highest hotel in the world maybe?
Day 12 - Gorak Shep to Dengboche
The plan was to leave to 5am to climb Kala Pattar peak. Another slow sleepy ascent, struggling for air. Unfortunately thick cloud covered most of the mountains. So although we summited, hitting 5590m, there was no view of Everest and with the wind, it felt like -10 degrees. Disappointing, but I had seen Everest from 3 places. We left Gorak Shep and had a long downhill walk to Dengboche. This felt significantly lower and rather than being a tourist town, the place seemed to a village in its own right.
Day 13 - Chukkhung Ri
Another good day: a slow walk up to Chukkhung then up Chukkhung Ri - a peak of 5550m. There was some good view of Island peak, en route. But this ascent was really hard, maybe because of the difference with Dengboche. The view from the top was great, with Makalu (8,462m), Cho Ayo, Pumo Ri, Lohtse face and Nupste. Ama Dablam overlooks Dengboche and was in view the whole day. We skidded, skied down in no time.
Day 14 - Dengboche to Tengboche
The last few days had seen unlimited cancellations, as heavy cloud prevented planes from landing at Lukla. So remarkably, our plane left on time. There was plenty of cloud about and despite landing on a six-pence, we made it! Having been cooped up in Thamel for a two noisy days, being out in the open mountains was like having a new set of lungs. The first days trek was fairly straightforward, undulating and only a few hours. The route passes various mani and stupas. Most of the rest of the day was spent sleeping and daydreaming at a mere 2500m.
Day 2 - Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Today was tough and proper trekking. The route crosses the river (name?) over several suspension bridges that somehow sap your energy. It passes through various villages and then hits a steep trail that leads up to Namche. With the sun at full blast, this was hard going. Especially as the heat reduces oxygen further. Mid way through the day, I found out that a plane had crashed at Lukla killing most of the passengers. My sense of mortality was right there in my face - the only option was to keep going.
With the flight delays creating backlogs, a long trail of sweaty trekkers virtually pigeon stepped up the hill to 3440m. But after 7 hours walking, we got there..Tried my first dal bhat and as cloud enveloped the valley, another quiet night in.
Day 3 - Namche Bazaar to Thame
The cloud had cleared by morning and at last, the reason I had come here, became apparent. Large snow peaked mountains surrounded Namche with plenty of blue sky. An easy day to Thame with some undulating trails passed quiet settlements. An increase of 300m (check!) or so. The lodge in Namche was fairly quiet as this is a less popular route, but interestingly and amazingly the lodge's owner - Appa Sherpa - holds the record for most ascents of Everest. Currently 19. Inspiration of sorts, but more bewilderment.
Day 4 - Thame to Lungden
Another 4 hour day. As we ascended above 4000m the landscape became more barren and more dramatic. The scale of the mountains was beginning to reveal itself. We stopped at Lungden - a very basic town. My first encounter with a group happened later in the day - 12 English. In a far off remote lodge, surrounded by Brits. Can't get away from it quite yet.
Day 5 - Lungden
The plan was to take to Renjo Pass today, but .... a dreadful night's sleep, if you can call it that. I probably slept one or two hours. My heart was beating at a fair old rate of knots and numerous paranoid/hypochondriac thoughts were flooding my mind. Would I have to turn back? Would my dream to see Everest be shattered before it had started? Also had some mild diarrhea, but a bit of anxiety about a full scale ascent the following day. So at about 3am, I was forced to wake Jhangbu and tell him I needed a rest day. My first proper acclimatization day, having missed the usual Namche rest. Not much happening in Lungden, but it was sunny and pleasant. And the English were actually a welcome addition, especially since some seemed in a worse state than me. Also having had minimal sleep, nodding off in the evening was fairly easy.
Day 6 - Lungden to Gokyo via Renjo pass
Now this was a great day. And especially after the tough previous night. We set off at 530am, in very faint light. The Renjo pass takes you to 5340m, so this was an overall ascent of 1000m (check!). The landscape was again very barren and steep. But I found a good focused pace that actually made it almost easy. We passed the English, but this was more down to their group inertia rather than my fitness. The last 200m up was steep on a snowy path of switchbacks. We had another Yak encounter that was quite surreal. Fortunately Jangbu carried my rucksack the final stage and was even running at some point.Having not really seen much thus far, arriving at the the top of the ridge was like being in a whole new mountain range. On the horizon was Everest, Lohtse and the rest of the Himalaya. Plenty of crowds going in both directions over the pass so it was hard to really contemplate the enormity of it, but 20 minutes down the trail (downhill), the immensity sank in. This was the highest mountain range in the world that totally dwarfed all others. In the distance was Gokyo and lake Gokyo (check!). Gokyo was fully booked, so at last I get to use the tent that I've lumbered up the hill.
Day 7 - Gokyo Ri
At 4700m, the night was extremely cold and in a 2/3 season tent, my expensive sleeping bad didn't seem to come up with the goods. The plan was to head up Gokyo Ri, which overlooks the village. But with cloud covering the top we delayed at ascent. Leaving at 9am and taking two hours to summit, we left at just about the right time, given the conditions. There was no view of the Everest range, but the view of the glacier was stunning. Gokyo has an excellent book exchange, so Touching the Void replaced Mountains of the Mind, and more inspiration followed. A blizzard hit Gokyo mid afternoon, so I de-tented. A short walk above the village to the glacier has stunning and overwhelming views.
Day 8 - Gokyo to Thagna
A clear morning, so a perfect chance for the Five Lake Walk north towards the Tibetan border. A second view of Everest was possible after a two hour slight uphill trek. The view along the **** glacier was as stunning as from the Renjo pass. We then crossed the glacier above Gokyo in a mazy and undulating trail that was often barely visible except for the odd cairn. Arriving at Phangnang (check!), a small village of three lodges and a stream, there was little to do except hang out around the yak dung fuelled stove. Time for rest before a long trek up the Chola Pass.
Day 9 - Thagna to Dzoglha via Cho La pass
Another 530am start and a long ascent to start the day. Early starts have their advantages: you don't walk in the sun for the first few hours and as you are half asleep it is easy to get in a good rhythm / forget about the steepness. This pass was pretty gruelling all in all, but not quite as bad as the Renjo pass. The ascent took about four hours. First a long steady climb, then a brief flat rocky path, then a very steep boulder trail. The last stretch was tough with less and less oxygen, but also with no clear path. Definitely sprained ankle territory.
Once you arrive the top and get passed the inevitable trekkers resting or passing the other way, the path led onto a snow covered glacial trail. This would be difficult in the winter to pass, but was great in the mid October sun. The descent was dramatic. First an almost vertical rocky path that looked horrendous to climb. Then a long trail with a simply magnificent view of Ama Dablam and the (lake?). We arrived at Dzoglha at about 1 or 2pm and stayed in a very cramped lodge with the English group and others.
Day 10 - Dzoglha to Lobuche
An easy day again. A pleasant downhill walk further down the valley and then a slow incline to Lobuche. The very relaxed walk did not lead to the best of overnight spots. Lobuche is a crossed between a run down town from Mad Max 2 and some sort of Indian border town. Lobuche is described as a shit-hole in Into Thin Air, written in 1996, so things obviously hadn't improved much. Most of the lodges were full, but I managed to "claim" a room that was closer to a cupboard and next to a disgusting toilet. The food was pretty good, but there was a constant flow of porters, trekkers looking for rooms and other hanger-ons. Sleeping was also very difficult with paper thin walls and somone snoring at full volume in my ear. I left as soon as there was sunlight. Lobuche was redeemed by a short walk above the village to a fantastic view of the glacier leading up to base camp. Numerous cairns littered the ridge - another spot where you feel small and the size of Himalayas hits you.
Day 11 - Lobuche to Gorak Shep
We left Lobuche at 7am and trekked to Gorak Shep at 5180m. I could definitely feel the altitude here but after a hearty breakfast, we made the slow trek up to base camp. The walk wasn't the easiest. Firstly as the air was thin, but also as we crossed the glacier, the trail was rocky and undulating. However at long last, base camp was reached, the main objective of the trek achieved. No elation, but very very satisfying. Base camp is just a rocky area but is surrounded by oppressive peaks. You cannot see Everest, there were good views on the way up. I had met quite a few trekkers who said that base camp wasn't worth it, but I disagree. It's the place where dreams start or die, it's the base of the world's greatest mountain and it is a beautiful spot in its own right. Not just a tick-box place. On the way back we heard several avalanches. We didn't know it at the time, but several climbers were killed. We trekked back to Gorak Shep and by the end I was shattered. This was possibly the longest days trekking I'd done so far. The loodge was busy but friendly. The highest hotel in the world maybe?
Day 12 - Gorak Shep to Dengboche
The plan was to leave to 5am to climb Kala Pattar peak. Another slow sleepy ascent, struggling for air. Unfortunately thick cloud covered most of the mountains. So although we summited, hitting 5590m, there was no view of Everest and with the wind, it felt like -10 degrees. Disappointing, but I had seen Everest from 3 places. We left Gorak Shep and had a long downhill walk to Dengboche. This felt significantly lower and rather than being a tourist town, the place seemed to a village in its own right.
Day 13 - Chukkhung Ri
Another good day: a slow walk up to Chukkhung then up Chukkhung Ri - a peak of 5550m. There was some good view of Island peak, en route. But this ascent was really hard, maybe because of the difference with Dengboche. The view from the top was great, with Makalu (8,462m), Cho Ayo, Pumo Ri, Lohtse face and Nupste. Ama Dablam overlooks Dengboche and was in view the whole day. We skidded, skied down in no time.
Day 14 - Dengboche to Tengboche
Down to Tengboche today and getting lower and warmer. This was also back on the main drag to base camp, so plenty of traffic in both directions. Tengboche was one of my favorite places. It was pretty much booked up, so the tent had its 2nd use and I camped in a great spot looking down on the valley towards Namche. Tengboche has a large and active monastery, which can be visited at prayer time. It also has an expensive cake shop.
Day 15 - Tengboche to Namche
Getting right back to reality today as we made the final descent to Namche. Met some porters who I kept bumping into. We arrived in Namche at midday, giving time to visit the Sherpa museum and Everest document centre. I sat in Everest bakery for a few hours watching the world go by, talking traveller rubbish with some guys I'd met in Tengboche.
Getting right back to reality today as we made the final descent to Namche. Met some porters who I kept bumping into. We arrived in Namche at midday, giving time to visit the Sherpa museum and Everest document centre. I sat in Everest bakery for a few hours watching the world go by, talking traveller rubbish with some guys I'd met in Tengboche.
Day 16 - Namche to Lukla
So the final leg. It was sad to think about it, but with six hours walking, by the end I was feeling well exercised and had probably enough. We passed some very impressive stupas I'd passed a long time ago. Lukla isn't the best place, but you can watch the planed take off, which is quite exciting. There are a few bars, including the ubiquitous Irish pub. But it was nice to have a shower and really relax.
So the final leg. It was sad to think about it, but with six hours walking, by the end I was feeling well exercised and had probably enough. We passed some very impressive stupas I'd passed a long time ago. Lukla isn't the best place, but you can watch the planed take off, which is quite exciting. There are a few bars, including the ubiquitous Irish pub. But it was nice to have a shower and really relax.
Wilderness UK
This blog is dedicated to the wild, mostly in the UK but also overseas. This blog will described wild places, with wild vegetation and wild inhabitants, where wilderness activities flourish.
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